A Man of Particular Taste

The man from Oberbergen, a small town near Baden in southern German winecountry, was appalled. Legislators had increased the upper limit for the residual sugar content of dry wine to nine grams a litre under the condition that the wine had at least seven per ml acidity.

Never has such nonsense been passed in wine law, swore Franz Keller, one of Germany's better-known personalities in the wine-growing business. Theway had been paved for an era of sickeningly sweet-sour wines.

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